deborah
Marketing Gobbletygook and Double-Speak in Skincare
Pardon me while I download my frustration for just a minute. I may even embarrass myself. I’m pretty good with computers and iPhones, but Microsoft Office is about as far as I go. Technology bores–or maybe “overwhelms” is a better word–me. So when I tried to buy some thumb drives on-line, which are pretty much no-brainers, I thought–I was totally bufuddled by the technical gobblety-gook on a dot-com (I have absolutely no idea what is meant by a “jump pen memory stick enhanced for Windows ready boost). Huh? What’s that?? So instead of making a purchase, I just closed the window.
Whoever is coming up with these things doesn’t understand that even though women use technology, we generally don’t understand it–nor do we want to. Speaking for myself (and trying to avoid gender profiling here!) I have zero inclination to try to figure it out.
So what does this have to do with skincare? Well, what the computer industry calls “tech-speak” evolves to what the skincare industry calls “beauty-speak”–a bunch of pseudo-scientific and pedantic language that is instead thoroughly confusing! Some of it is pure double-speak.
Let’s face it, the anti-aging skincare industry overcomplicates things. There are way too many options, and way too many ingredients. Even well-informed consumers have a hard time figuring it out. Part of it, I’m sure, is the companies keep adding marketing bells-and-whistles, to differentiate their products and try to impress consumers.
Dr. Zein Obagi isn’t like that. He doesn’t understand marketing and is the first to admit it. He thinks like a dermatologist, and wants to use that which works. So that’s why ZO Skin Health is focused on the tried-and-true–like retinol. With Dr. Obagi, there is much more “steak” than “sizzle”. In case you haven’t already guessed, he is a very direct, straightforward, results-oriented guy. With Dr. Obagi, there is no hidden agenda.
So why do skincare lines have so many options? Some of the old-guard companies–that developed their lines 15 or 20 years ago–are challenged to keep their products new and relevant. Retailers demand “newness”. So the companies keep developing more stuff–even though “new” is not necessarily better. And after a few years, they have product lines with 50 or 75 different products–and who can figure them all out?
Skincare is Dr. Obagi’s priority, but it’s probably not yours. I hope that the marketing materials that ZO has developed, and the products that Dr. Obagi has formulated, are simple to understand, select, and use. Because I wouldn’t blame you if you hit the “escape” button, or “Command W” if we’re boring you with technical gobblety gook. Let’s talk to each other in plain English. Everything works better that way.
ZO Skin Health
Facelifts, Optional.
I went to a party in Tinsel Town this week, and while there was some small-talk about Tiger’s troubles or the California gubernatorial, I spent most of my time talking about— you guessed it — skin. That’s OK, it’s my favorite thing to talk about.
But there’s something that I didn’t like: The number of women who told me that they needed plastic surgery — a facelift or necklift — or lasers. Who told them that? Their friends? Their husbands? Their doctors? No, none of the above. More often than not, the women had convinced themselves.
I’ve got nothing against plastic surgeons. In fact, one works in my practice. There are some wonderful plastic surgeons out there. And lasers? I almost have more than I can count. Admittedly, I like gadgets, high-tech equipment and the latest technology.
I tried to convince these women that the right skincare products can thicken and strengthen their skin — maybe a chemical peel (like the Obagi Blue Peel) would be a good idea. I tried to convince them that they looked great and that invasive surgery wasn’t the right option at this time. Mild skin laxity can be reversed non-surgically. Face lifts are necessary only when muscle and skin laxity is pronounced. The land of the rich and famous has some petty, ego-driven and competitive people and unfortunately this influence has spoiled some otherwise wonderful people.
Is it their skin these folks don’t believe in or is it their dermatologist? Because I can turn both around in no time.
It shouldn’t be about keeping up with the Joneses. Especially not when the Joneses are getting gratuitous plastic surgery. It’s time we start a new trend. One that accomplishes healthy, youthful skin without the aid of a scalpel. Your skin can do it.
deborah
Why Your Skin Needs Preparation for Spring
When spring arrives you can’t help but store the sweaters, pull out the beach towels and put the top down. But what are you doing to get your skin ready?
According to Dr. Zein Obagi, world-renowned dermatologist and creator of antiaging skincare line ZO Skin Health, it takes hard work to get great skin and preparing it for the changing seasons is no exception.
“Your skin isn’t your cell phone. It doesn’t automatically adjust itself after Daylight Savings,” says the world-renowned dermatologist. “You need to do the initial work and it will respond.”
But, you need to do the right work, which is why the first step to transitioning your skin from winter to spring is to amp up on SPF and cut back on moisturizer. The SPF will protect you from the harmful UVB rays your skin will be seeing more of in the months ahead and less moisturizer will activate your skin cells, the key to Dr. Obagi’s healthy skin philosophy.
“Too much moisture trains the skin to rely on outside sources for hydration instead of producing it from within,” says Dr. Obagi. “In trying to counteract the dryness with a lot of moisturizer, you’re actually perpetuating it.”
Less moisturizer isn’t always received with open arms, but neither was Dr. Obagi’s healthy skin concept 30 years ago. Today it’s mainstream.
The second step in preparing skin for spring is much easier to swallow. It comes in the form of berries. Blueberries, strawberries, blackberries —they’re all in season and great for your skin. Each is high in antioxidants, which protect skin cells from the damage increased sun exposure can cause.
Next up is your cosmetic bag. If not cleaned out regularly, it can be a breeding ground for bacteria and germs that will ultimately transfer to your face. Pay special attention to water-based products, which degrade and become useless after a year at the longest. Mascara has a 3-month life span. Anything without water — powder, eye shadow, etc. — can last up to two years.
Once you’re done trashing the expired products, thoroughly clean your brushes. Wash them with shampoo until the water in the sink drain runs clear. To make this process easier, keep a brush-cleaning spray like Brush Off handy and clean off your brushes after each use.
The final step for prepping your skin for spring is exfoliation. After months of exposing your skin to heated indoor air, the dead skin cells accumulate at the surface. According to Dr. Obagi, if your skin has seen signs of aging then your skin cells have already slowed down the natural sloughing off process, making your need for exfoliation even more urgent.
Your skin needs epidermal turnover, something ZO Skin Health’s Exfoliating Polish earns praise for. The round magnesium crystals and Vitamins A, C and E in the product put in overtime to banish the skin of dead skin cells.
“Collagen gets a boost and cells become active,” says Dr. Obagi of the exfoliation process. “When you put in the work it pays off. The reward is beautiful, healthy skin.”
ZO Skin Health
Large Pores… For Some, They’re an even Larger Problem
Large pores—how can something so small be such a big deal? Probably because enlarged pores make it difficult to have smooth, firm, tight, younger looking skin. Correcting large pores is not difficult, but you need to treat your skin right!
Here’s are a few “do’s”:
- Make sure that you use the right cleanser. Use one designed for oily skin—look for ingredients like salicylic, glycolic or lactic acid, and make sure that you use it for one full minute—it takes that long to break down sebum. Even if you think you have “normal” skin—and I personally don’t think that there is such a thing—I recommend a cleanser for oily skin–like ZO’s Exfoliating Cleanser. That’s the first part of the regimen—twice a day—morning and night.
- Exfoliate! Once a day is not too much. You need to get rid of the dead surface skin cells so that the younger, healthier, living ones can emerge. If you don’t exfoliate regularly, your skin will appear dull and dry. I like a good scrub—like ZO’s Exfoliating Polish. It has round magnesium crystals so won’t irritate the skin. And scrub diligently! What you really want to do is to stimulate your skin cells—keep them alive and active!
- Deep cleanse your pores with TE pads—they’re soaked in a combination of salicylic and glycolic acid to exfoliate the skin, thus speeding up skin renewal.
- Retinoids (like Retin-A) or high potency retinol products (like ZO’s Radical Night Repair Plus) may reduce pore size because they help decrease the activity of the oil glands. Active Vitamin A treatment doesn’t reduce pore size for everyone—but many people are successful with it.
- Try a quick fix at home. Egg white masks (combine two egg whites and a few drops of lemon juice) can have a quick, albeit temporary, fix.
- Microdermabrasion administered by a professional aesthetician will help exfoliate the skin and provide temporary improvement, but it’s not a permanent solution.
And a few “don’ts”:
1. Don’t get overzealous. Avoid the use of harsh astringents and toners–they can exacerbate the problem.
2. Use moisturizers advisedly. They compact dead cells and decrease cellular turnover. When your pores get clogged and skin isn’t allowed to exfoliate normally, you increase the probability that pores will be enlarged.
3. Don’t try to cover up the problem with foundation or powders. It won’t work and will only irritate the pores (as well as your dermatologist).
Work with the basics—a cleanser, chemical and physical exfoliant—daily. Those three things may be enough to treat large pores.
ZO Skin Health
The Battle of the Sexes: When It Comes to Fighting Aging, Men Win.
If you’re thinking, “it’s just not fair”–you’re probably right. It’s a double-whammy.
We already suspected that men find it easier, and quicker, to lose unwanted pounds. But now we know women also age faster than men–meaning their skin loses collagen and elastin at a faster rate, and at an earlier age, than men. That helps explain why women spend more time and more money on cosmetic products, injections, and procedures. It’s not just vanity–it’s reality.
Lasers can now image the deeper layers of the skin–where collagen and elastin are produced. Studies conducted at the National Taiwan University in Taipei showed that collagen degenerates in women faster–causing more wrinkles, more skin laxity, and more uneven texture.
Women’s best revenge? Use topical products high in active Vitamin A (retinol or retinoids) and active Vitamin C. Build up your skin’s natural defense mechanisms to restore skin strength and resiliency–ZO Skin Health’s Radical Night Repair Plus is a good choice.
Life still won’t be fair, but at least your skin will be firm.
deborah
Know Where Your Money is Going
Have you ever wondered what’s worth paying for and what’s just a waste of time and money?
We realize high-quality skincare comes at a price, but some of the stuff now on the market is patently ridiculous. Here are just a few examples of items currently being marketed.
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A Swarovski crystal-studded cream pot: You have to wonder how many pageant dresses were harmed in the making of it and what function it serves the application process or your skin directly.
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Creams that come with little spoons or spatulas: Does the miniature utensil help you better apply the cream or better eat up the tomfoolery?
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A liquid serum bottle made of actual gold: Why do we suspect you’d have better luck taking it to the pawn shop than you would putting its contents on your face?
So is all impressive packaging a giant rip-off? No. Sometimes it’s not a luxury at all; sometimes it’s a necessity.
Case in point, some of the new pumps and jars. There might be a bit of a wow factor to them, but most of these airless pumps and jars were designed strictly with function in mind. According to Dr. Obagi, “pop up pumps promote cleanliness (keeping fingers out of the jar means that bacteria can’t be introduced) and keep the key ingredients safe from degrading.” Retinol, retinoic acid, Vitamin C and many natural/organic products spoil quickly when exposed to air or UV rays.
And there’s another big plus. Measured doses (like with Ommerse Cremes, Radical Night Repair Plus, Growth Factor Serum and Oclipse sunscreen) help ensure you’re not using an excessive amount of product, which can backfire on you. (Yes, too much of a good thing really does exist.)
The next time you buy a skincare product, ask yourself if the bells and whistles serve a function or a distraction.
ZO Skin Health
Fighting Aging–with a Punch!
Rumor has it that I don’t mess around developing skincare products. Point well-taken. Nobody ever called me a wuss.
I don’t believe that skincare treatment products can be truly effective unless they have high concentrations of active ingredients. If they’re “watered down” or have weak formulas–the skincare products are essentially just moisturizing your face–they won’t have any lasting benefit. If you’re going to fight aging, pack a good punch!
Take my newest creation–ZO Skin Health Ossential Radical Night Repair Plus–it’s what I call putting the punch into the fight against aging.
* It has ten times as much retinol as the leading beauty store brand; six times as much retinol as the leading drug store brand; five times more retinol than the leading department store brand.
* It’s in a water-free formula, so the active retinol is not diluted–it’s more potent. And Ossential Radical Night Repair Plus can’t evaporate–it stays on your skin until it’s absorbed.
* The time-release micro-spheres continue to work for 5-6 hours, so it can continue to work while you’re sleeping.
* A brand new peptide increases your skin’s tolerance for high concentrations of active ingredients (that’s my kind of peptide!). We always want to increase the strength of our skin; tolerant skin is strong skin.
For effective products, I like to develop formulas that are almost prescription-strength–you’ll get better results that way.
ZO Skin Health
Getting Older? Looking Older Too? Here’s How to Reverse that Trend.
Dermatologists like to tell people what they can do to treat lines and wrinkles caused by UV damage/wind/smoke, etc. It’s easy. There are lots of good ingredients for treating environmental aging.
But intrinsic aging—meaning, you and your skin are just getting older—is different. Until recently, if you asked dermatologists what ingredient worked best–hmmm, they would twittle their fingers, rub their fingers through their hair…because they didn’t know what ingredients worked for natural skin aging! But now, that’s changed…we have something to say to people who are getting older (and look that way!)
Intrinsic skin aging (aka natural or chronological aging) looks a little different from environmental skin aging. With intrinsic aging, the wrinkles are finer, and the skin gets thinner and more lax. Environmental factors, on the other hand, cause deeper wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.
John Voorhees, MD, and his team at the University of Michigan, did a test on the underside of the upper arms of older women—and found that high concentrations of retinol significantly reduced wrinkles and other signs of aging. The study was controlled (meaning that one arm was tested; one was not) and double-blind (meaning that neither the researcher nor the subject knew what products were being tested). The underside of the arms have never been exposed to the sun, so it’s easy to isolate skin aged due to natural causes.
The conclusion: high concentrations of retinol successfully treat intrinsic aging due to retinol’s ability to stimulate collagen and retain water. As Dr. Voorhees said, “this is the first systematic, double-blind study showing that it (retinol) improves any kind of aging – photoaging as well as natural aging. You can rub it anywhere, and it will help to treat the signs of aging.”
The study was widely reported, but first published in the Archives of Dermatology.
That’s why I’m so committed to ZO Skin Health’s Radical Night Repair Plus. Whether you’re concerned about environmental skin aging, or natural skin aging… Whether you’re concerned about your face or your arms, retinol—properly formulated—can make a big improvement.
ZO Skin Health
Pushing the Envelope–with 1% Retinol
It’s true; I do like to “push the envelope”. For me, “pretty good” is not good enough. That’s why in my new Radical Night Repair Plus, I amp’ed up the formula to put in 1% retinol. That may not sound like much, but to your skin–it’s a whole lot! Here’s why:
Retinol is the most effective topical ingredient for anti-aging—and the only one that is clinically proven. But for it to be effective, it has to reach a concentration in the skin of at least .60-.70%.
Typical drug-store retinol products (even the best selling one!) only contain about .15%—not enough to make a meaningful difference. No matter how much you put on—you can put it on all night—you’ll never reach .60%.
With a 1% concentration—like Ossential® Radical Night Repair Plus, you can activate and stimulate your skin cells so that they begin producing collagen and accelerate cellular turnover.
Scientists agree that an even higher concentration (for ex., 2% or 3% or 4%) would be even more effective, however the product would be unacceptably irritating. 1% is the ideal “cap rate”—the greatest concentration of retinol, with little or no irritation.
Please use Radical Night Repair gradually and apply according to label directions. Do not use in combination with other nighttime skincare products that may compete with it or induce irritation.
ZO Skin Health
